The article ‘Ethical issues’ published in Fibre to fashion was great for giving me more of an insight into ethical fashion, what it is, the causes and what is being done about these surrounding issues. The figures published by the Co-operative company show that ethical fashion is becoming more popular due as the 30% increase of sales.(From 2003-2004.) I think this is due to the ready to wear market sector in fashion producing new ranges that are ethnically produced, such as; Dorothy Perkins, John Lewis, Marks and Spencer, Tesco, Topshop, Laura Ashley, Debenhams and Monsoon who all have ranges within their businesses that are more ethical.
Environmental damage
Textiles such as denim are dyed and softened using chemicals such as: Chromium IV, lead, aryl amines, phthalates formaldehyde and nickel. Garments can be treated several times to create desired effect causing damage to the environment and even the wearer due to contact with skin from the toxicity of these chemicals.
Figures show that per year two million dollars in the USA are spent on pesticides. It does not just affect the person who is wearing the garment but also the workers who are dispensing these chemicals across cotton fields. If workers become poisoned they can suffer from headaches, nausea, tumours, seizures and loss of conciosiness. Some cases have even reported deaths due to this product. As well killing the pests that are killed other small animals and birds are too.
The cruelty of animals
PETA an animal rights group. Millions of animals are killed per year just to be made into a garment. It’s not just this act that PETA are concerned with it is also the conditions and treatment of these animals leading up to their slaughter. They are beaten dragged around, kept in cramp disgusting conditions and mutilated without any painkillers. They suffer immense pain throughout the entire ordeal.
For ONE fur coat to be made it involves of about 55 wild mink, 40 sables, 11 lynx, 18 red foxes, 11 silver foxes, 100 chinchillas, 30 rabbits, 9 beavers, 30 muskrats, 15 bobcats, 25 skunks, 14 otters, 125 ermines, 30 possums, 100 squirrels or 27 raccoons!!
Stella McCartney is a high profile fashion designer who does not agree with the cruelty of animals for fashion, so does not use any fur or leather in her collections.
There are many celebrities who feel strongly against using fur in the fashion industry. Many have teamed up with PETA to create anti-fur campaigns. Having a celebrity helps to make some people more aware of the causes as many people look up to celebrities through the media so this is a great idea to get attention and people listening to the facts about fur. Unfortunately there are still celebrities who wear fur which for the same reasons as above encourages people to buy these garments, thus growing the business in the sale of fur coats.
I have also included some campaigns by PETA against the use of fur coats in the fashion industry.
'Stolen for fashion' an advert voiced by Ricki Gervais and the artist Pink
'Save the animals don't buy fur'
Child labour+Wages and workers rights
There are also many issues raised with the production of garments. Human rights activists have found that many workers suffer from exhaustion, mental stress, extremely low wages, sexual harassment, unsafe working conditions and very long working hours. Many activists have created groups to help protect the rights of the people suffering in these working conditions such as; Labour behind the label, Fashioning an ethical industry FEI, Responsible purchasing initiative, MADE-BY, and Ethical Fashion forum.
A young boy missing out on his childhood, working in a cotton field to help support his family. I feel that no child should ever have to work, their parents should be paid a higher wage so they can support the rest of their family and send their children to school. There employers are greedy, selfish people, who let these families suffer.
Children are also used to create garments often suffering in unhygienic conditions with poor quality of food available to them and long hours. This means that they will not receive an education nor will they be able to grow and develop healthily due to the lack of nutrients in the food that is provided.
In Bangladesh there is no minimum wage for workers, 50p an hour is the average wage in relation to the £5.80 that British citizens receive is appalling and barely enough to survive on. While the workers are suffering the companies who are responsible for this like Primark are taking home profits of £341 million a year. (Figures for 2010.)
Due to the low wages and rise in cost of basic foods including rice, sugar, cooking water and oil. Many workers are struggling to support their families.
Here are some video campaigns used to fight against child cruelty:
'Stop child labour'
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PK2okAbd2jw&feature=fvsr
Here are some video campaigns used to fight against child cruelty:
'Stop child labour'
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PK2okAbd2jw&feature=fvsr
'Child labour in India'
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJXfILoTEXQ&feature=related
'Child labour in Cambodian brick factory'
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Jfz9hKamoY&feature=relmfu
Size zero models
Luise Ramos was a model from Uraguay in August 2006 and tragically died from starvation. Due to the pressures and demand to be thin Ramos consumed a diet of coca-cola and lettuce leaves. Her younger sister was also found dead due to causes from anorexia and malnourishment, she previously been involved in the modelling industry. At the end of the same year a twenty one year old Brazilian model died of anorexia. Because of this in 2006 Madrid fashion week decided to ban size zero modelling and imposed a minimum BMI to help promote healthy image and attitude to fashion. Which Milan also followed at a later date.
The image above is revolting; this young woman looks a hundred years old she should never have been aloud down the runway. The make-up artist is more bothered about perfecting the models pout and not at all bothered by a tiny frame. This is disgusting and should not be happening.
Here are some anti size zero adverts that i have found:
'Super skinny me.' Two journalist take up the challenge of extreme dieting, this is a video documenting their journey and the effects it has, some very interesting and rather shocking figures.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY9LLMTCjwg
'Hot Kareena to sweat out size zero again.' A news report on the Bollywood actress Kareena who has become extremely unwell and has been collapsing due to her size zero crash diet. It has been announced that she will continue this diet to regain her size zero figure just for the film!!! This is a shocking message to young woman, keep on dieting until you collapse and then diet some more just to get 'that figure' disturbing and unhealthy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSkwaOdjCgM
'Kate Moss sparks size zero debated' Kate Moss said to a journalist recently " The feeling of skinny is far better then the taste of any food." In this video celebrities react to that statement.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4M2PT74yGQU
This year Israeli lawmakers have taken control of their countries advertising. In an attempt to reduce eating disorders for the models used and the public who view these images. A BMI minimum of 18.5 is required from all models to help promote a healthier body image. Models will have to produce a current medical record in excess of three months.
Although there has been criticism for the 18.5 BMI that has been in place, as some models are naturally thin and would not pass this test. It is arguable that the concerns should be focused on health and not weight. Top Israeli model Adi Neumann has a natural BMI of 18.3 and claims she eats well and exercises. Neumann said on the restriction “"Force actual tests, make girls go to a doctor. Get a system to follow girls who are found to be puking."
The British fashion council are aware of some of the issues that model such as anorexia, and bulimia but have not placed any laws to ban size zero models from the catwalk in the U.K. However they do encourage designers to introduce healthier looking models.
Christopher Kane is a designer known for not for using size zero models. When he first starting using plus size models for his collections he had a large response from the media which was generally seen as positive. But behind the scenes it was a different story many of his loyal make-up artists, dressers and organisers refused to work for him as they did not want to be associated with promoting a larger size model. He was also shunned by other designers in the industry; many people were concerned that this would end his career.
All of the woman in these images above are 'plus size' models. The term used I find offensive as it puts emphasis on them being bigger when really, there not big at all. They are in fact smaller than the average size woman in the U.K at the moment which is a dress size 16.
Calvin Klein has used size 2-4 modelsfor the first time this year rather than the typical zero in his new campaigns for autumn collection.
What is a natural weight for one model could be extremely dangerous and life threating for another. I think this should be imposed in England are this is causing deaths, and that all models who are naturally that slim must produce medical records to say that they are otherwise more young models lives will be lost.
Bibliography
